Ansel Adams Wilderness: Thousand Island Lake Loop
Banner Peak above Thousand Island Lake at sunrise
Location: Inyo National Forest, CA
Duration: 4 days, 3 nights
Dates Hiked: August 21-24, 2019
Mileage: 25-30 miles
Elevation: ~3,700 ft elevation gain
Temperature: ~80°F daytime, ~50°F nighttime
Camps: Ediza Lake, Garnet Lake, Thousand Island Lake
Permit: Yes
Trailhead: Agnew Meadows (loop)
Destinations: Shadow Lake, Ediza Lake, Iceberg Lake, Garnet Lake, Thousand Island Lake
The Ansel Adams Wilderness offers some of the most brilliant scenery in all the Sierra Nevada. From dramatic snow-draped peaks to glittery sunlit lakes, it’s truly paradise on Earth. Oh, and the area is also home to a couple of premier hiking trails. You might have heard of the Pacific Crest Trail and John Muir Trail? Seriously. This stretch of land is a true gem of the Sierra. And I would argue that the Thousand Island Lake Loop is the crown jewel. Although I’ve only visited the Sierra a few times, it’s difficult to imagine a more impressive sight than the striking skyline views from this area: the Minarets, a set of sharp pinnacles, coupled with Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak framing deep blue alpine lakes. This four-day trek easily cracks my all-time favorite hikes list.
LOGISTICS
Any overnight camping in this area requires a wilderness permit. Quotas apply May 1 through November 1, and are non-quota the remainder of the year. You can reserve your permit up to six months in advance and up until two days before your trip (pending availability). I strongly recommend that you make reservations exactly six months before your entry date. This area is super congested due to the aforementioned PCT and JMT, so permits are in high demand. You can make reservations on Recreation.gov. Once you secure a permit reservation, pick up your actual permit a day before the entry date. I believe 60% of the quota space can be reserved, while 40% are for walk-in requests.
The online reservation fee is $6 and $5 per person after that. There is also a fee to take the shuttle or a vehicle on the road to Agnew Meadows, where the trailhead is located. If you stay at a campground in the Reds Meadow Area, you are permitted to drive in and park at the trailhead. For everyone else, a shuttle ride is required to get to and from the trailhead from the hours of 7am-7pm. Personal vehicles are allowed outside these hours; you simply have to pay $10 when you exit, and the entrance station is manned. Personal vehicles and the shuttle ride are free if you have an America the Beautiful National Parks Pass.
For the shuttle, you will need to park at Mammoth Mountain Adventure Center. The shuttle charges by the individual. Here are the current pricing and operating hours. Get off at the first shuttle stop for Agnew Meadows. From the Agnew Meadows Shuttle Stop, it’s a quarter-mile stroll down a gravel road to the trailhead.
There are several trails at Agnew Meadows that will lead you to Thousand Island Lake. For my trip, I reserved permits for Shadow Creek - AA07. Here is a map of the area, including trails you can take for this loop hike.
Below is our trip itinerary with mileage. Milage will vary depending on how far/deep you go to find a campsite at each lake.
Day 1 - 7 miles
Take Shadow Creek Trail from Agnew Meadows Trailhead, stop at Shadow Lake, camp at Ediza LakeDay 2 - 4 miles + 2 miles detour
Take JMT from Ediza Lake to Garnet Lake, camp at Garnet Lake (optional detour to Iceberg Lake via Iceberg Lake Trail)Day 3 - 3 miles
Continue on JMT from Garnet Lake to Thousand Island Lake, stop at Emerald Lake, camp at Thousand Island LakeDay 4 - 8.75 miles
Take PCT (aka River Trail) from TIL to Agnew Meadows TH
I would recommend hiking this loop in the clockwise direction—visiting Ediza Lake first, ending with Thousand Island Lake, and returning on the PCT. The environment grows progressively more spectacular with each day. Plus, you can save the best views for the end. As tempting as it is to hit Thousand Island Lake first, you will have more appreciation and awe for the incredible scenery if you save TIL for the final destination. And if you need further persuasion, hiking on the PCT as you exit TIL provides a grand visual overview of the landscape you just experienced the previous days.
The closest town to Thousand Island Lake and the Ansel Adams Wilderness is Mammoth Lakes. This place is extremely popular in the summer and winter. You can find plenty of lodging and restaurants here for your pre and post-trip activities.
Lastly, it’s also a good idea to stay overnight either at Mammoth Lakes or a developed campsite nearby so your body can acclimatize. You will be hiking in elevations of 8-10,000 feet and altitude sickness is real.
LEAVE NO TRACE
Please please PLEASE practice Leave No Trace principles. I cannot believe how much trash (mostly toilet paper and baby wipes) I came across at Thousand Island Lake. Let’s respect and preserve this wild space. Please educate yourself on where to camp (at least 100 feet away from lakes and water sources) and how to treat human waste (bury in 6-inch holes and 100 feet or more from water sources or campsites). Always pack out toilet paper, wipes, and garbage.
Cheesin’ at the parking lot before heading to the Agnew Meadows Trailhead
TRIP REPORT
The drive from the Bay Area to Mammoth is roughly five hours. We stayed at Mammoth Mountain Inn the night before our hike. The inn is a bit dated and old but it offered all the pre-trip amenities we needed. (Mainly a comfy bed and a shower to rinse ourselves off the morning of our four-day trek.)
We opted to drive in before the operating hours because I did not want to be bound by the shuttle schedule, and because one of my favorite parts of a strenuous backpacking trip is returning to our car on the last day and pulling off my boots. The idea of delaying this glorious moment was inconceivable.
So, Reko and I drove to Mammoth on Tuesday. (Technically, he did all of the driving.) We had dinner/our last supper at The Eatery. On Wednesday morning, we showered, checked out of the inn, and drove to the trailhead—arriving before 7am. We purchased BBQ pork buns from 99 Ranch the day before and we scarfed them down for breakfast. There are vault toilets at the trailhead so we used a real toilet one last time, grabbed our packs, and embarked on our first 4-day/3-night-excursion of our hiking careers. This was also our first backpacking trip of 2019.
Weather-wise, it was HOT. Each day was in the 80’s. The nights were around the 50’s, very comfortable. Reko slept without his sleeping bag for a night because it was so warm…which also meant perfect conditions for mosquitoes.
Visiting Ansel Adams Wilderness in August after a late snow melt year is not advised if you are a magnet for mosquitoes, which, unfortunately, I am. I was considering titling this post “Land o’ Mosquitoes” because they played a major role in our trip. Ten minutes into our hike, I got bit; that was bite #1 of what would eventually become 30 mosquito bites. I lost count after 30 so the number might have been higher! We knew bugs would be an issue so we sprayed our clothes with permethrin when we were at home. Either Reko did a crummy job of spraying my shirts, or the permethrin was ineffective, OR the mosquitoes in this area are so highly evolved that they have developed immunity to permethrin. Whatever the case, I was eaten alive during these four days. You have been warned. These buggers are voracious. They are most active in the late afternoons and evenings. Reko was spared for the most part. He probably emits less CO2 than me.
Day 1: Agnew Meadows to Ediza Lake
The first few miles of the Shadow Creek Trail were relatively flat and easy. Then, around 2.5 miles, we started climbing and it was completely exposed. We hiked alongside beautiful waterfalls, which made the ascent more bearable. The first notable destination was Shadow Lake, and it was a wonderful introduction to the rest of the trip. Much of the terrain of this trek is defined by majestic snowcapped peaks and sparkling lakes. Shadow Lake was no exception. It offered our first glimpses of Mount Ritter (the highest mountain in the Ansel Adams Wilderness) and Banner Peak, the two prominent peaks of our hike.
Mount Ritter behind Shadow Lake
The climb before Shadow Lake was the toughest. After we reached the lake, the hike mellowed out. We continued on and reached Ediza Lake around 2:30pm. Ediza Lake is round and surrounded by hills and mountains, almost like a crater. The lake is pretty but the surrounding mountain range stole the show—especially the jagged spires of the Minarets, Mt. Ritter, and Banner Peak.
Ediza Lake
The Minarets
Arriving at 2:30 was exceptionally early for us and we needed the additional time to find a campsite (it was crowded), set up camp, filter our water, and cook dinner. Being novice backpackers, we made a poor selection for our campsite. It was right in the middle of a meadow, close to the banks of the lake. This meant a massive mosquito attack in the afternoon and ridiculous overnight condensation on our tent. We could not find any campsites higher along the mountainside. After we set up our tent and finished filtering our water, we began the mosquito shooing dance, which lasted throughout dinner and our hygiene routine.
I think we retired to bed around 7:30 and I completely KOed. I fell asleep to the sound of rushing water from a tributary emptying into Ediza Lake. I had the best sleep I ever had in the backcountry that night. I was physically exhausted from the hike, and also mentally drained from the couple of days leading up to our trek. I was interviewing for a new job and it was a whirlwind.
Since we dozed off so early, we missed the sunset. I was disappointed. The mosquitoes also made it impossible to enjoy the sunsets during our trip because they were most active at dusk. Ediza Lake was the worst since we were on low land next to the water. It was a war zone simply getting into our tent as the blood suckers swarmed us. It felt like the mosquito apocalypse and we only had seconds to unzip the tent and bolt in, praying nothing followed behind.
The Minarets above Iceberg Lake Trail
Day 2: Ediza Lake to Garnet Lake (side trip to Iceberg Lake)
The next morning we woke up to a drenched tent. You would have thought it poured the night before, but it was condensation. Our tent and rainfly were covered in water. Although condensation is natural and occurs regularly, the design of our tent exacerbated the wetness. Reko decided we were going to be guinea pigs during this trip. He purchased a new ultralight tent and sold our old Kelty tent. (This was the best! It had a stargazing fly and it was so spacious.) He got a Nemo and I would not recommend it. The rainfly provided very little separation from the tent, so water from the rainfly easily transferred to our tent, and thus, our sleeping pads and bags. Furthermore, it felt more like a one-person dwelling than a tent fitted for two campers. Reko and I are pretty lean, but even we felt cramped and claustrophobic. Finally, the material felt flimsy. I’m all for lighter gear but this was compromising too much on comfort and functionality.
Our mosquito plight was still horrendous in the morning. We sought higher ground and climbed up to the mountainside to eat breakfast. We had a bit of a late start because it took a while to find a place to do a #2 (reminder, human waste must be buried at least 100 ft from water sources and pack out all used toilet paper). We decided to take a side trip to Iceberg Lake, which I would argue was the most unique and remote lake we encountered. It’s two miles roundtrip from Ediza Lake. We left our backpacks on the side of the trail so we did not have to carry them.
Despite being only a mile, it’s quite an ascent. We hiked through several snow patches and tiresome switchbacks. When you stop climbing, the trail levels out and a stunning vista emerges: a haunting vivid blue lake with floating icebergs cradled by deep black peaks behind it—the Minarets. Utterly sensational, and we saw only four other people here. A far cry from the crowds we encountered at Ediza Lake. Iceberg Lake was really cool (pun intended). Reko and I marveled at the magical ice formations and the water reflection that created a mirror image of the Minarets.
We hiked back down to Ediza Lake and retrieved our packs. Now came an arduous climb to Garnet Lake via the John Muir Trail. This stretch is only 3-4 miles, but it’s all uphill. Luckily, about half of the trail is shaded. Surprisingly, we bumped into very few hikers during this portion. Perhaps because it’s deeper in the wilderness which deters most dayhikers.
Note: the trail along Ediza Lake crosses a fast-moving creek and the bridge was recently washed out. You will have to find alternative spots (ideally, calmer waters) to cross. We went east of the bridge.
The detour to Iceberg Lake meant we started our trek to Garnet Lake around noon. We tackled steep switchbacks and rocky terrain. At last, we climbed to the top of a pass. We were pooped but the view of Garnet Lake and endless granite peaks capped by Banner Peak reenergized us.
View of Garnet Lake and Banner Peak descending the pass (via John Muir Trail)
We made our way down lengthy switchbacks to reach Garnet Lake. When we arrived at the bottom, we took a quick snack break. We were still far from done for the day. Camping is not permitted at the initial section of the lake. We had to cross the wooden bridge and trek farther west to set up camp. So, there was a lot of hiking left.
After crossing the bridge, we accidentally lost the main trail and ended up meandering through dense brush and vegetation on a faint secondary trail. As we approached the northwestern tip of the lake, we passed several occupied campsites. It was pretty late in the afternoon; I was worried 1) all the campsites were taken, and 2) even if we found a spot, we wouldn’t have enough daylight to set up camp. I was starving, exhausted, and frustrated. We were so close to the end, but it felt so far away.
We continued trekking along the hilly trail. We encountered a nice fellow camping with his dog. He recommended a campsite a little farther ahead. It was secluded, flat, and sandy with a great view. He really liked the site and he would have claimed it himself if he hadn’t already set up camp at his current location.
This chat boosted our morale. We graciously thanked the camper and returned to the trail with a renewed sense of determination and vigor. A few hundred feet later, we reached the campsite. Reko and I got to work setting up camp. The site was surrounded by rocks so we only had a partial view of Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak. But we just had to go out roughly 20 feet to get a superior view of the peaks and lake. We did not meet another camper for the remainder of the night. We cherished the solitude.
The mosquito situation did not relent at Garnet Lake. The primary casualty was my forehead. I wore a hoodie with a built-in balacava, so only my eyes were exposed. And that’s where the mosquitoes attacked. I got bit all around my eyes and forehead. I wouldn’t know the severity of the bites until the next morning.
It was getting dark so we didn’t have much time to relax at the campsite. Reko and I refilled our water bladders, cooked dinner quickly, did our hygiene, and crawled into our sleeping bags. Before dozing off, we stargazed for 20 minutes. The night sky was luminous. Bright twinkling specks splattered across a black canvass. The Milky Way was visible along with countless sparkling stars. We oohed and aahed. I even saw a shooting star! The night was calm and we fell sound asleep after a grueling day of climbing. However, I woke up multiple times because of my itchy bug bites.
Garnet Lake at sunrise with Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak reaching for the clouds
Day 3: Garnet Lake to Thousand Island Lake
The next morning, a bite near my left eye had swelled up. My eyelid was partially obstructing my line of sight. I didn’t think much of it because I was a walking bug bite machine at this point. Reko and I ate breakfast. We headed out to the lakeshore to get a better view of the mountains. As we got closer to the shore, we hiked over a small rocky hill. Over the hill, there were around 10 tents and lots of campers. It appeared everyone was camping at this shore. I can’t blame them. Early sun rays illuminated Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak. Slowly, sunlight flooded the landscape, subduing shadows, and awakening the Earth from its peaceful slumber.
After snapping photos of this breathtaking display, we hopped back onto the JMT. It was a quick, slight uphill climb. On our way, we passed by Ruby Lake and Emerald Lake. After a short 3-mile hike, we arrived at the main attraction: Thousand Island Lake, where we were welcomed by lots of people. We crossed a bridge and headed west, scouting for a campsite.
The phenomenal views of Thousand Island Lake surrounded by snowy peaks, capped by Banner Peak, were out of this world. I could barely concentrate on the trail as my eyes were glued to Banner Peak. TIL is massive and the shimmering blue water stretched on and on. As the name suggests, there are numerous rocky islands dotting the lake. Reko and I hiked for a while until we came upon a decently secluded campsite next to the water.
We quickly unpacked our bags and set up camp, giddy like kids on Christmas Day, enthralled by the dreamy landscape. It was teasing us to explore. Unfortunately, our excitement got the best of us and we didn’t realize our campsite had a big smelly problem. The previous campers peed AT the campsite and as luck would have it, we built our tent either right next to, or ON, their backcountry bathroom.
I was dying internally and seriously considered moving our tent. I did not want to deal with the stench of urine and swarms of flies. However, that spot was the most ideal. We hoped the smell and flies would dissipate. As we explored our campsite, we came across a small area near some big boulders the was scattered with used toilet paper and baby wipes. This disgusting and inconsiderate behavior is infuriating. Folks who cannot follow or respect the rules of the backcountry, do not deserve to be there. They are ruining the experience for others, and more importantly, harming the environment. It also makes me wary about sharing these outdoor treasures with people who do not respect the land. No one will pick up your garbage. If left out there, it will stay out there. So please, educate yourself and practice Leave No Trace principles. (Reko and I tried to pack out as much of the used tp and garbage as possible the next day.)
After we finished setting up camp, we ate lunch and walked around the lake. We found a small sandy area resembling a beach. We took a ridiculous amount of pictures. The area is so darn photogenic. There were some early wildflower blooms and I kept saying “this is so pretty!” It was around mid-afternoon and we decided to take a dip in the lake. It was hot, probably low 80’s, and the clear water looked inviting. Other than Lake Tahoe, this was my first time swimming in an alpine lake. (Lake Tahoe doesn’t truly count though.) I started slow, carefully gliding through the water as it reached my knees, my waist, and then I took the plunge. The water was bitingly cold. But after a few minutes, my body adjusted and I was having a ball.
We swam to a small island and sunbathed for 20 minutes. There was a good number of people in the water but we had ample space. After 90 minutes, we got out and chilled at our campsite. It was a lazy day and I was not complaining. After two full days of hiking, we reveled in the play. We opted for an early dinner so we could actually savor the meal. The previous days, we were either battling the mosquitoes or nightfall. I made my own dehydrated meals for the trip. Dinner was curry chicken with brown rice. As we ate, a wilderness ranger was making the rounds and visiting every campsite checking permits. He was a young guy with a scruffy beard. He was assigned to patrol the area for nine days! We chatted with him for a bit and he told us there were around 50 campers at the lake. Holy cow!
The mosquitoes were still out in full force so we had to head into our tents for shelter. We did brace the pesky buggers to catch part of the sunset. The pinks, purples, and oranges animated the sky. It was simply mesmerizing.
Magical sunset over Thousand Island Lake
Day 4: Thousand Island Lake to Agnew Meadows
I tossed and turned our last night in the backcountry. As a light sleeper, I always have issues sleeping while camping. I probably slept for four hours that night. Plus, the irritating mosquito bites made matters worse as I could not resist scratching. By the time dawn broke, I was awake and ready for the sunrise. And that sunrise was enchanting! The lake was still and crystal clear, reflecting a perfect mirror image of Banner Peak.
Whether it’s sunset or sunrise, Thousand Island Lake delivers a dazzling color palette. We quietly watched as the morning sun lit up Banner Peak.
Magnificent reflection of Banner Peak over Thousand Island Lake during sunrise
After sunrise, we got down to business. We were heading back to civilization that day and we had a long hike ahead of us. We ate breakfast, took down our tent, packed up, picked up trash that was left from previous campers, and headed out. With lighter backpacks but heavy hearts, we left TIL. Despite the mosquitoes, heat, and roughing it in the wilderness, we were sad to leave this gorgeous place.
The trek back to Agnew Meadows was via the renowned Pacific Crest Trail. Although shy of nine miles, it was challenging due to the conditions of the trail. It’s exposed and some areas are unmaintained and narrow. Nonetheless, the excitement of hiking on the PCT and the endless views of mountain layers quashed any complaints we had. As we continued on the PCT, we were treated to a visual summary of the terrain we covered in the days before. We were overcome by gratitude, astonishment, and respect for the land. This is one of the reasons why hiking this loop clockwise is recommended.
Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail
We started our trek at the bottom of the waterfall (on the left) and hiked up to Shadow Lake.
We also found cell service/reception at certain sections of this hike. The final push to the trailhead is around half a dozen switchbacks. We were fatigued but at last, we reached our car. Cheers erupted. Thousand Island Lake Loop was the most difficult backpacking trip we had done up to this point. The first day was a steady uphill climb starting at mile 2.5 (with full, heavy packs). The second day was the most challenging as the JMT took us over a mountain pass. The third day was a relatively painless stroll from Garnet Lake to TIL. On the final day, our bodies were spent and we were yearning to return to creature comforts.
We dropped our packs, pulled off our boots, and drove off to our first real meal at Texas Roadhouse.
Other than reluctantly donating a pint of blood to evil blood suckers, this trip was incredible. The views at every turn kept getting better. Live stock (primarily horses) are allowed in the area, and they are a popular means to explore the lakes. Therefore, expect to share the trail with horses and their excrements. There is lots and lots of poop. This, and the bugs, were the only crappy parts of the hike. (Get it?)
1,000% I would do this loop again. I rate this hike 1,000/1,000. Hopefully, I’ve hammered home the point. If you only have one chance to backpack in the Sierra, make sure it’s the Thousand Island Lake Loop.